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Khalil

Ingrid Pullar for The New York Times

The courtyard of les Borjs de la Kasbah, in the heart of the Medina of Marrakesh.


Two opposing clichés — “small is beautiful” and “bigger is better” — dominate the hotel scene in Marrakesh, Morocco’s jet-set and style center. In the Medina, the teeming old city, the ancient labyrinthine lanes and bazaars have filled with luxurious five- and six-room bed-and-breakfasts that offer intimacy and Moorish designer-cool touches over grandiose amenities like pools and spas.

Outside the Medina, where land is much more abundant, a host of neo-Sultanic hotels dangle such enticements as sprawling wellness centers and vaulted restaurants. But they lack the charming surroundings of the old city.

Les Borjs de la Kasbah tries to bridge both concepts with a stylish 18-room hotel. Situated in the Medina, it nonetheless offers amenities associated with the large hotels beyond the medieval ramparts. The idea is noble, but the execution was marred — during my stay, at least — by sub-par service.

THE LOCATION

The hotel, next to the Royal Palace, is a date’s throw from all of Marrakesh’s famous sites: royal tombs, covered markets and the bustling, colorful central square, Jemaa el Fna.

THE ROOMS

My room, a standard double, combined classic Moorish style — hammered-metal lampshades, carved wooden latticework and colorful fabrics on the queen-sized bed — with modern conveniences like a flat-screen TV, cordless phone and air-conditioning (essential in southern Morocco).

THE BATHROOMS

Large, warmly illuminated by a skylight and attractively lined with mosaic tile, the bathroom was extremely comfortable and inviting. It’s just as well. Thanks to a 12-hour bout of nausea from some tainted food that most likely originated in the hotel, it was the room in which I spent the majority of my stay.

AMENITIES

Extensive, for a modestly sized hotel. Water babies and devoted tanners will appreciate the keyhole-shaped blue mosaic swimming pool — a true luxury in the Medina — while the hammam, multi-jet hot tub and spa seem geared to guests worn out from shopping and clubbing. A 40-minute hammam session, with a thorough soaping and rigorous exfoliation, is 150 dirhams, about $19 at 7.9 dirhams to the dollar. A 30-minute massage is 260 dirhams.

The restaurant, Le Jasmin, has a hybrid menu with everything from Moroccan chicken tagine to steak au poivre to crème brûlée. A daily-changing chef’s menu offers three courses for 250 dirhams.

THE BOTTOM LINE

In spite of the attractive décor and ample amenities, Les Borjs de la Kasbah did not exactly rock. The real disappointment was the service. A taxi pick-up at the airport, booked weeks in advance through the hotel, never materialized. Moreover, I was charged on my hotel bill for a meal I never ate — eventually corrected — and fell violently ill from the one I did. (I scrupulously avoided the water, so it wasn’t from that.) When I mentioned during checkout that I thought something in the hotel food had made me seriously sick for my first day and night in town, the woman at the desk stared at me blankly. “Maybe it was the climate change,” she said.

Standard doubles range from 1,200 to 2,000 dirhams ($152 to $253) a night.

Les Borjs de la Kasbah, Rue du Méchouar, La Kasbah; (212-24) 38-11-01; Les Borjs de la Kasbah - Luxury Hotels Marrakesh, Resort & Spa Marrakech.

Check In, Check Out - Hotel Review - Marrakesh, Morocco - Les Borjs de la Kasbah - Travel - NYTimes.com