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Morocco provides a welcome break from a gloomy winter, says Isobel Shepherd Smith after a week with Club Med

Isobel Shepherd Smith

The sight of the red Berber city of Marrakesh bathed in sunshine and surrounded by snow-covered mountains always thrills and never more so than after a gloomy week in London where the talk is of nothing but the weather or the economy.

Morocco and Club Med make an ideal short break, only four hours from London but a world away in experience.

The resort of La Palmeraie is situated on the outskirts of Marrakesh and its sophistication contrasts wonderfully with the men in djellabahs who cycle pell-mell through the streets and souk with several live chickens trussed about their person, and shepherds who drive their flocks undaunted through rush-hour traffic.

The resort has the look and feel of an oasis (it is in the country's oldest palm grove). Guests are greeted by ululating women in traditional dress; sparkling man-made rills and fountains run the length and breadth of the gardens; olive and date palms abound; hibiscus and oleanders are in full flower and blue plumbago and roses adorn the bedroom terraces. The rooms are decorated in Moroccan style, each with a little patio overlooking the gardens. Rose petals are strewn across the pillows every evening.

The resort has an overwhelmingly French air with impeccably groomed men and women - not a beer belly, football shirt or tattoo in sight. An open bar operates (champagne cocktails on Saturday night) but nobody appeared to take advantage, apart from a group of Antipodeans who proceeded to drink steadily, shouting to one another and jumping noisily into what was a tranquil swimming pool overhung with palms and redolent of jasmine. Club Med should be careful what it wishes for.

Food prepared on such a large scale (up to 700 people are catered for) is always in danger of being hit and miss but the standard was generally excellent. The dining rooms can be a rather daunting at night; it is probably the only time that you become aware of just how many guests there are.

Daytime is a more agreeable experience because it is warm enough to sit outside among the lemon trees drinking Moroccan rosé and soaking up birdsong and winter sun. There are also two restaurants with waiter service, which can be booked ahead.

La Palmeraie has the usual Club Med activities and classes where lithe young Moroccans (the GO team) exhort visitors to get moving. There is a well-equipped gym, a spa with a variety of treatments, steam room and sauna. Riding in the oasis itself is extra and must be booked in advance. Golf, tennis and archery are also available.

For those who want more than a restful soak in the sun, a day trip into the High Atlas mountains provides an opportunity to see more of this fascinating country. However, if the beach is more appealing than the mountains, Essaouira with its harbour and windsurfing, is only a couple of hours away on the Atlantic coast.

Marrakesh itself has a lot to offer: the Saadian Tombs, several museums including Dar Si Said, which houses traditional Berber jewellery and carpets, and Jardin Majorelle created by the French painter Jacques Majorelle in 1947 and bought and restored by the late couturier Yves Saint Laurent.

The garden, which is also home to the Museum of Islamic Art, is an ideal place to cool off with a glass of mint tea. Or have an apéritif at Club Med's sister resort of La Medina next to Djemaa el-Fna, the grand square, before tackling the souk. Snake charmers, jugglers and storytellers are still there; it is a scene that hasn't changed in 100 years and will probably still be there 100 years hence.

Need to know

Based on departures from April 25, seven nights in Club Med La Palmeraie, Marrakesh, are £895 for adults and £668 for children. This includes flights from London, all transfers, accommodation in a club room, meals, alcoholic and soft drinks and snacks.

Club Med - where happiness means the world - luxury holidays for families and couples - 0871 4254044

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